1. What brought you to Burgundy in the first place?

SHERI:

I had the opportunity to live in Europe in my late twenties. The experience was unforgettable. I wanted Gary to take the same risks and experience life in France. After much coaxing, he accepted an early retirement. We rented out our home in California, and off we went, with dog in tow. We chose Burgundy because it is truly a beautiful and passionate place.

GARY:

A honeymoon. We first came to this part of France in 1990, shortly after our marriage. We fell in love with Beaune: took a hot-air balloon flight over the vineyards; drove through hills; got hooked on the area. We’ve been back two or three times since, and each time we liked it more and more.

When we started planning our “move” to France – a visit of about a year – we quickly decided that this is where we wanted to settle. It has everything we love about France: history, culture, tradition, scenery, fabulous food, wonderful people. Oh, and decent wine too. It’s a reasonable distance from Paris and from most other parts of France. It just seemed a perfect place to settle.

2. What about Burgundy makes you want to stay?

SHERI:

We are infatuated with the vineyards, the winemakers and the wine. We also cherish the friendships cultivated with our French “families”.

GARY:

Well, other than the history, culture, tradition, scenery, fabulous food, wonderful people and decent (okay, amazing) wine, not much. It’s really hard to explain. There is a different pace to life here, slower, deeper, somehow more meaningful than the life we had back in the States. The “new” buildings are a couple hundred years old. Caesar rode down the road in front of our apartment. Charlemagne had his wine made here.

3. What is your favourite village or town? Why?

SHERI:

Every time we drive through Porte St Nicolas and into Beaune, my heart skips a beat. Summer evenings are spent sitting on a bench in the Place Carnot, watching tourists and pinching ourselves that we live here. Old cobbled streets, ramparts, colourful tiled roofs, restaurants and shops, hidden alleys and magnificent monuments are just a few things that make Beaune an enchanting little town.

GARY:

Tough question. We live in Pernand-Vergelesses, and we just love it here. It’s a beautiful wine village about five kilometres from Beaune. We were ridiculously lucky to find our apartment, and have virtually become part of a wonderful family here.

But for entertaining, shopping, concerts, restaurants, museums – the things that people do when the visit someplace special – Beaune is arguably my favorite town in the world. It’s a relatively small town, with about 23,000 people, but this ancient walled city has everything.

4. What is your favourite Burgundian dish?

SHERI:

All the typical burgundian dishes are delightful, but the simplest pleasure for me is a basket of gougères (choux pastry cheese puffs) and a bottle of crisp Rollin Pernand-Vergelesses vin blanc.

GARY:

In general, I’d have to say Oeufs en Meurette, or eggs poached in red wine. It took me years to gather enough courage to try it – it sounded weird – but it’s delicious.

There are, of course, the traditional regional dishes: jambon persillé, boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin. They’re all good. Our favorite restaurant in Beaune – the Abbaye de Maizières – makes a dish called Cassolette d’escargot, a kind of escargot soup that may sound a little strange to our North American friends, but is truly out of this world.

5. What is your favourite Burgundian wine?

SHERI:

Burgundy wines are elegant and delicious. We have such respect for the guys and gals in the wine industry whose dedication and hard work produce such an incredible product. My favourite wines are the ones brought out of the cellars, unlabeled, marked only with chalk. Corton Charlemagne takes the prize!

GARY:

Oh, gee, that’s like asking which is your favorite child. We’ve had wines here we could only dream of back in the States. I’ve learned a lot about Burgundies, but I still have a lot to learn. We had a 1983 Corton Charlemagne with friends that was like nothing I’ve ever experienced; it was incredible. Then there was the ’87 Gevrey Chambertin and the ’89 Aloxe Corton, and a 1959 Pernand-Vergelesses. But those are rare, incredibly special treats. For “regular,” more affordable wines, I love the white Pernand-Vergelesses and the Ile-des-Vergelesses from Domaine Rollin. But that’s not to say that I love those children best!

6. What is your worst memory about Burgundy?

SHERI:

Having to move out of our apartment for two weeks in September. Domaine Rollin uses the apartment to house about nine grape pickers during the harvest, and it was stipulated in our lease that we would have to vacate during this time. However, we were able to find housing in another winemaker’s gîte, which has magnificent views of the Corton hill.

GARY:

There aren’t many bad memories. I guess our worst time was when we were trying to find an apartment to rent. My French isn’t good – and was worse when we arrived – and I had to try to arrange appointments to see apartments or houses to rent. I would carefully rehearse my questions and make the call. Unfortunately most of the potential landlords were very friendly and animated; I say unfortunately because I understood very little of what they said to me. It all worked out wonderfully, though.

7. What is your best memory about Burgundy?

SHERI:

The townsfolk of Pernand-Vergelesses regarded us for a long while without curiosity, but with caution. We were the new folks walking the little black and white dog, who drove a leased Renault. But as the news got out that we were renting from a well respected winemaking family, we were considered harmless. And as we were embraced by the Rollin family, the others in the village admitted that they would now say “bonjour” to us. But my best memory was at the Mayor’s Wishes town gathering. At the end of the meeting, the mayor introduced us as “Les Americains” renting from the Rollins. Everyone from the village came up to us and offered us a sincere welcome. Finally, we were warmly accepted as official “Pernandias”.

GARY:

There are so many. The church bells – les cloches – on a still night; walks in vineyards; bike rides on quiet country roads or on the Canal de Bourgogne; the wines; finding your own favorite boulangerie; having a conversation where you understand, and are understood. We’ve had some wonderful adventures exploring different parts of Burgundy so we could be proper ‘tour guides’ for friends who came to visit. The best memories, though, are of the people we have met, who have welcomed us into their homes and their lives. That has been the experience of a lifetime.

8. How would you describe the Burgundian “caractère”?

SHERI:

Bon vivant. The art of good living, moving at a slower pace, savouring meals and wines with a passion at a leisurely pace with friends and family.

GARY:

It’s hard to generalize so many different people, but in general I’d say most folks here are a little more reserved – at least at first – than we’re accustomed to back in the US. But once you’ve met someone, they’re remarkably warm, friendly and kind. And once you become a “friend,” you’re a real friend. We’ve even had experiences with French bureaucracy – legendary, even among the French, for their cold intransigence – where we were treated with kindness and humor.

9. What is it that you treasure most about daily life in Burgundy?

SHERI:

Unlimited delightful discoveries, driving through photogenic villages and vineyards, and the big bonjours received in shops and boulangeries.

GARY:

The sense of place. Just driving through ancient villages or walking through vineyards with old stone walls, you feel thousands of years of history seeping into your bones. We have been so, so fortunate to have had this chance to get to know “La France profonde.”

10. Where is your favourite place to watch the sun set over Burgundy?

SHERI:

Sharing a bottle of cremant at the panoramic viewpoint above Pernand-Vergelesses.

GARY:

From “The Virgin,” or more accurately Notre Dame de Bonne Espérance, the statue that watches over Pernand-Vergelesses. She looks out over Beaune and the vineyards of Pernand, Aloxe Corton, Savigny-les-Beaune and off to the hills of Beaujolais beyond. It’s like a dream – a dream come true.